ECOLOGY & SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY
General Description
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibers, including ecological
and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of
the entire textile supply chain.
Aim
The aim of the standard is to define world-wide recognized requirements that ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labeling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer. Textile processors and manufacturers are enabled to export their organic fabrics and garments with one certification accepted in all major markets.
Criteria
The consensus of the International Working Group was that a clear and unambiguous understanding of the content required that the Global Standard itself focuses on compulsory criteria only. The standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibers. The final products may include, but are not limited to fiber products, yarns, fabrics, clothes and home textiles.
The standard does not set criteria for leather products.
Fibre Production
The key criteria for fiber production can be identified as:
· Organic certification of fibers on basis of recognized international or national standards (e.g. EEC 834/2007, USDA NOP)
· Certification of fibers from conversion period is possible if the applicable farming standard permits such certification
· A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade ‘organic’ must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibers whereas a product with the label grade ‘made with organic’ must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibers
Processing
Key criteria for processing and manufacturing include:
· At all stages through the processing organic fiber products must be separated from conventional fiber products and must to be clearly identified
· All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meeting basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability/eliminability
· Prohibition of critical inputs such as toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes
· The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals
· Bleaches must be based on oxygen (no chlorine bleaching)
· Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited
· Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited
· Restrictions for accessories (e.g. no PVC, nickel or chrome permitted, any polyester must be post-consumer recycled from 2014 onwards)
· All operators must have an environmental policy including target goals and procedures to minimize waste and discharges
· Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant.
· Packaging material must not contain PVC. From 1st January 2014 onwards any paper or cardboard used in packaging material, hang tags, swing tags etc. must be post-consumer recycled or certified according to FSC or PEFC
· Technical quality parameters must be met (s.a. rubbing, perspiration, light and washing fastness and shrinkage values)
· Raw materials, intermediates, final textile products as well as accessories must meet stringent limits regarding unwanted residues
· Minimum social criteria based on the key norms of the International Labour Organization (ILO) must be met by all processors
Quality assurance system
Generally a company participating in the GOTS certification scheme must work in compliance with all criteria of the standard. GOTS relies on a dual system to check compliance with the relevant criteria consisting of on-site auditing and residue testing.
Certification of the entire textile supply chain
· Fibre producers (farmers) must be certified according to a recognised international or national organic farming standard that is accepted in the country where the final product will be sold
· Certifiers of fibre producers must be internationally recognised according to ISO 65 and/or IFOAM accreditation. They also must be accredited to certify according to the applicable fibre standard
· Operators from post-harvest handling up to garment making and traders have to undergo an onsite annual inspection cycle and must hold a valid GOTS operational certificate applicable for the production / trade of the textiles to be certified
· Certifiers of processors, manufacturers and traders must be internationally accredited according to ISO 65 and must hold a ‘GOTS accreditation’ in accordance with the rules as defined in the ‘Approval Procedure and Requirements for Certification Bodies’
Residue / Testing
· Stringent orientation values for unwanted residues are defined in the standard
· Licensed operators must undergo residue testing according to a risk assessment of contamination
· Additional samples may be taken by auditors and sent for analysis to ISO 17025 accredited labs
Label-grades
Only textiles produced and certified according to the provisions of the standard can carry the GOTS label.
The standard provides for a subdivision into two label-grades:
Label-grade 1: ‚organic‘
≥ 95% certified organic fibers, ≤ 5 % non-organic natural or synthetic fibers
Label-grade 2: ‚made with X% organic‘
≥ 70% certified organic fibers, ≤ 30 % non organic fibers, but a maximum of
10% synthetic fibers (up to 25% for socks, leggings and sportswear)
The only differentiation for subdivision is the minimum percentage of 'organic' material in the final product. This is analogous to leading organic regulations in the food market, such as USDA/NOP. The remaining balance (up to 5% or 30% respectively) may be composed of non-organic fibers, including defined regenerated and synthetic fibres (25% at most for socks, leggings and sportswear and 10% for all other textile products). Blending conventional and organic fibers of the same type in the same product is not permitted. If raw fibers with the certified status 'organic - in conversion' are used instead of certified 'organic’ fibers, the corresponding label grades are named 'organic - in conversion' respective 'made with x% organic -
in conversion materials'.